4: Hawaiian Hotspots...a guest post from Gary Griggs

Early morning moon setting over Moana Kea (with the UCSC Keck Observatory visible at the right) in Hilo, Hawaii

Seeing the full moon set over Moana Kea as we sailed into Hilo, Hawaii, was not only a welcome sight after 7 days at sea, but was also a reminder that these islands are all volcanic, created over five or six million years as the massive Pacific Plate has moved northwest at a few inches a year over a hot spot or thermal plume rising from deep within the Earth. Six million years ago Kauai sat over the hot spot and was actively erupting, building that island up nearly 30,000 feet from the seafloor. Each island gradually formed and then died in a progression to the southeast as it moved away from the hot spot or plume. Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, and Maui each had their day, and now Hawaii sits over the plume, with Kilauea the most active volcano on Earth directly connected to a source of magma deep in the mantle.

While many of the people on the ship expected a classic steep-sided cone like Fujiyama, Mt. Saint Helens, or Shasta, the Hawaiian volcanoes are all much more subdued, being shield volcanoes, or shaped like a Roman shield resting on the ground. The difference in their shapes lies in the nature of their eruptions, which results from different lava compositions. The Hawaiian Islands consist entirely of basalt, lava low in silica. As a result the eruptions produce very fluid lavas, which flow considerable distances at only moderate speeds and are generally not a hazard to people- unless the people are moving very slowly or in the wrong place at the wrong time

The Cascade volcanoes, on the other hand, as well as Mt. Fuji, which loomed on the horizon on Yokohama as we sailed in early on the 29^th of January, have a classic steep-sided, symmetrical shape. The Chain of Fire, or the volcanoes that surround the entire Pacific Ocean, contain a higher silica content, and produce sticky, explosive eruptions, which build up steep, cone shaped peaks. Our best view of Mt. Fuji came on our entry to Japan and as the weather changed, we sadly never saw it again. But Deepika did get some nice pictures (stay tuned...)

Kilauea steaming (photo by G. Griggs)

Hiking across Kilauea Iki crater (photo by G. Griggs)

I did lead a class field trip to Kilauea on a hike down into and across Kilauea Iki, which was a red-hot, molten lava lake in the not too distant past, and which is still releasing sulfur oxide fumes and hot steam. As the lava lake gradually cooled and hardened the surface subsided and left a surface looking an asphalt highway broken and cracked by an earthquake.

Site of 1959 Kilauea Iki 2000ft high eruption (photo by G. Griggs)

Kilauea Iki following the lava lake cooling and collapse (photo by G. Griggs)

Broken and collapsed lava from former molten lava lake (photo by G. Griggs)

Walking across the now hardened lava brought thoughts of walking over hot coals and led us to wonder when the next eruption was likely to occur.  Kilauea is monitored virtually continuously by the U.S. Geological Survey’s Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, through a combination of the earthquake detection beneath the volcano, GPS measurements of the slopes around the volcano to see if there is any swelling, as well as daily sampling of the gases being discharged for any changes. Fortunately, the eruptions of Kilauea are somewhat more predictable and less devastating than the volcanoes surrounding the Pacific Basin.

Lava Tree - molten lava rushed around a living tree trunk, and immediately cooled, creating a mold of the tree within
(photo by G. Griggs)

3: Sailing the Pacific...to Hilo, Hawaii

Classes start. There are no weekends on Semester At Sea. There are only "A" Days and "B" Days. They occur one after another, every day that we are at sea. The first "A" day was on a Sunday. Gary has two classes back to back on the "A" Days, and one class on the "B" Days. 

Food is plentiful....3 times a day. There are evening snacks. There is a 24 hour cafe. There is a poolside grill. I am eating too much, exercising too little. The students seem to be taking advantage of the fitness equipment.

Internet is slow and not plentiful. It is an adjustment for everyone. But email seems to work, with a bit of a lag. With an added international roaming texting plan, we are actually able to text friends and family. Phone calls are pricey though. A $20 phone card gives you 13 minutes.

The view out of our our balcony is beautiful. The quality of light is constantly changing. The water is sometimes pearly gray, sometimes deep blue. In rough weather, we see whitecaps. Sunlight reflecting off the whitecaps gives an illusion of a diamond encrusted sea. The constant motion of the sea, sometimes calm, often roiling, always changing, makes it feel alive....like a huge organism that is allowing us to traverse its body.

We have not succumbed to sea-sickness. But the constant rolling of the ship is a complete surprise to me. It is impossible to walk in a straight line. We all weave back and forth as we walk...doing our best not to bump into others.

The days pass by one after another. As we approach our last day before landfall the excitement mounts. We are prepared with language bootcamp. We get an overview of the port, the art of Hawaii, the Hula, the unique geology...hot spots, moving tectonic plates. We can't wait to get on land, make some calls, find an internet cafe...

First Sight of Land 

Around 7am, Friday, January 17, 2014, we sight land!

Sunrise over Hilo

Moon over Mauna Kea (the world's largest mountain if the mass below the ocean is included)

A Full Moon, Mauna Kea, and the Keck Observatory

Tonight we board the ship and sail to Honolulu. Tomorrow - Saturday, January 18, 2014, we start the long journey to Yokohama, Japan.

2: Sailing off...to Ensenada, Mexico...

The next day, Thursday, January 9th, 2014, was full of Faculty and Staff orientation meetings. Unlike Gary, who was faculty, I had no responsibilities. The ship was hosting a TEDx event in the afternoon at 1pm and then a Parent Reception later that night at 7pm. I began to get familiar with the ship.

Glazer Lounge on Deck 7 where faculty, staff, families and Life Long Learners have a quiet place to work

View from Deck 5 Balcony - Port of San Diego

The thought of "sailing off" to Ensenada, Mexico that night was exciting. But I was also dreading how my body might react to the rolling and pitching of the ship. Gary, a two time veteran of Semester At Sea, expected to experience sea sickness during the first few days. As someone who gets car sick on Highway 17, I had absolutely no doubt that I would be miserable without some assistance. So I had prescription patches. I had ginger tablets. I was prepared! The instructions on the patch said "don't cut", but the ship's doctor said "definitely do cut in half or even quarters" especially if you are not a 200 pound 6 feet tall man. Luckily, we left at 11pm, and apparently, when lying down, the effects aren't too bad at all.

View from Deck 5 Balcony - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

View from Deck 7 - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

View from Deck 7 - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

We woke to a different landscape - Ensenada, Mexico - industrial, quiet. All anticipation was for the 600 additional passengers - undergraduates and Life Long Learners - who would board the ship that morning. While I was in our cabin with the sliding glass door to the balcony open, I thought I heard Gary's voice. Looking out, there he was, in the midst of the boarding line, welcoming and chatting with every single student and Life Long Learner. I got out my telephoto lens...

The excitement of the new passengers ready to start an the voyage was infectious

The Pilot Ship accompanies us out of the Dock

After dinner that evening, in the twilight, we set off for Hawaii. It was Friday, January 10th, 2014. The crossing would take us a week. We would dock in Hilo, Hawaii at 8am, Friday, January 17, 2014.

The adventure was just beginning...

1: Semester At Sea...The Voyage Begins!

This voyage has been on our calendar for almost two years. But the day finally did arrive, way too soon. In San Diego, California, at 1pm on Wednesday, January 8, 2014, we boarded the MV Explorer, the ship that has been the home of Semester at Sea for the last ten years.

To say the ship is impressive would be an understatement. But I am equally, if not more impressed by the 200 or so constantly busy and always cheerful crew members who take care of the ship, as well as all of us - approximately 550 students, 30 faculty and 40 staff and all their families, and the 60 life long learners...

Monumental stairs in two locations connect the ship's 7 Decks

24 hour Cafe on Deck 6

View Across Deck 7 and down to Deck 6 just outside the smaller Dining Hall

Deck 7

Deck 7

Deck 5 Cabin - Home Sweet Home until May 2nd, 2014

We settle in and meet the other faculty and staff and family members. We are from institutions all over the United States. Many are repeat voyagers who have forged strong connections and with each other and have nothing but praise for the mission of ISE (Institute for Shipboard Education) and the defining experience Semester at Sea can be to all those fortunate enough to have the opportunity share the voyage.

We stay docked in San Diego tonight...don't have to worry about the possibility of the dreaded sea-sickness...yet...

River Ripples

There is a beautiful secluded spot on the Smith River in northern California that we try to visit whenever we can squeeze in a road trip up the coast.

We found it in 2006. While I knew that such lovely rivers existed throughout the United States, in National and State Parks and Forests, I was astounded to learn that one could stop along the highway, walk down a path, and just jump in – that it was “allowed”! I attribute this ignorance to being an immigrant who spent most of my youth studying and working, rather than exploring. But I have great admiration for the many people who came upon these beautiful locations and made the effort to preserve and share them with the rest of us.

Swimming in cold water is something I avoid with a passion. But on a hot summer day, I have to admit that these waters are mesmerizing. The sun’s rays refract on the waters surface creating sparking jewels of glorious colors and hidden depths. They weave a magical spell and it is impossible to resist its call…to drink in its thirst-quenching beauty…and lose oneself.

Yikes! It’s freezing…but wow…just…beautiful.

Next time you are traveling between California and Oregon, take a little detour to Highway 199 and make a quick stop at the Mary Adams River Access.  If you are heading north, it will be on your right, just before the bridge. You won't be disappointed.

On the Bosphorus
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012
photo by Roger Winter

You can see more of my photographs at: digitalyak.etsy.com

The Hagia Sophia's "Little" Moments

Without a doubt, the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey is an iconic piece of architecture. The monumental building has been photographed numerous times by masterful artists, so it is more than a little daunting to consider how best to present photographs of it in a new and meaningful way.

A collage of elements creates a layered view towards the apse of the Hagia Sophia
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

Peter, a good friend, once made a tongue-in-cheek remark that went something like this: “when I look at your photographs, I sometimes wonder if we actually visited the same place…”

His words made us all laugh and we moved on. But he was right. I do often end up photographing elements of a place that aren’t the “main attraction.” When I reviewed my many photographs of the Hagia Sophia, wondering how I could present a different sort of story, it dawned on me that Peter's words might be the key. I could tell the supporting story, putting my focus on the "sub-plots" (in keeping with the storytelling analogy).

So - in selecting these photographs, my goal was to find the "hidden" views - studies of spatial volume,  layering, light, color and decorative detail - that would make for an intriguing composition. While none of them capture the grand scale of the structure or do justice to its complex interconnecting volumes, I hope these “glimpses” play a role in revealing the supporting elements that are just as essential in creating the rich and multi-layered experience that is the Hagia Sophia.

The Imperial Gate
This central portal between the inner narthex and the nave was reserved for the Emperor.
 Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

For nine centuries, the Hagia Sophia (translation: divine wisdom) was a principal church of the Byzantine Empire. In 1054, it bore witness to the advent of the Great Schism - the division of the Eastern Orthodox Church and the Roman Catholic Church. After the fall of Constantinople to Sultan Mehmed II in 1453, it was converted to a mosque. Mosaics were plastered over and minarets added. Though never intended to be a mosque, it nonetheless became an important precedent for the design  of future mosques, including the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) and the Suleymaniye Mosque. Since 1935, it has been a museum.

Second Level Arched Colonnade of the Hagia Sophia
This side wall is really an enclosing plane that shifts in permeability, from large openings on the ground level,
to a more tightly spaced colonnade at the second level, and then to a solid wall with punched windows above.
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

The Hagia Sophia we see today was commissioned by Justinian the Great in 532 CE. It was built with astonishing speed - the work of over then thousand people - and inaugurated in 537 CE . It sits on the site of two earlier churches - Constantine's Church and Theodosius' Church. Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles were chosen as its designers. According to Sir Bannister Fletcher's A History of Architecture, they were not called "architects" but rather "mechanicoi" -  as they were knowledgeable in the "mechanical sciences" of their time, which would be analogous to the geometry of today. He also notes that the the design is unusual in that the longitudinal emphasis of the basilica plan is moderated by the massive dome which exerts a centralizing influence.

Multi-Layered Enfilade - Hagia Sophia
In this view across the nave from the second floor gallery, the many layers of interconnecting horizontal
and vertical spaces are bathed in natural light that further accentuates and differentiates,
adding to the rich visual experience of the nave and central dome.
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

In fact, the dome exerts more than just an "influence". It's soaring volume is the main event. It is exactly 100 Byzantine feet (about 103 feet 4 inches) in plan, and after being rebuilt at different times through the years, it stands taller (at 182 feet 5 inches) than the original.

After recovering from the overwhelming drama of this singular space, one begins to take in the supporting elements (or "little moments") of the structure that enhance it and define it. The many attempts at restoration and modernization, not to mention the clear design "improvisations" (Sir Bannister Fletcher's very apt term...) - doors and colonnades that don't line up, structural stiffeners that had to be added, etc. - do nothing to diminish the building's power of place. It has a "messy vitality" (a term originally coined by architect Robert Venturi in the book Complexity and Contradiction in Architecture), that does not detract from its beauty. The overall effect is one of wabi-sabi glory - and it is truly breathtaking.

Mary in Light - Portion of the Deesis Mosaic on the 2nd Level of the Hagia Sophia
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

One of the little moments that contribute to the wabi-sabi glory of the Hagia Sophia is the Deësis mosaic. This particular view - with the soft light illuminating the face of a soulful and compassionate Mary - is perhaps my favorite. The elements of the image - the mosaic artist's mastery, the plaster, the golden opulence, the less than perfect but still beautiful decorative painting above the cornice, the carving of the window transom - all seem to work together to embody much of the Hagia Sophia's story.

The Deësis mosaic was uncovered in the 1930's by a team of archaeologists and craftsmen who were following a map left behind by the Fossati's brothers, Gaspare and Giuseppi. The brothers were engaged by Sultan Abdul-Medjit to restore the Hagia Sophia after it had suffered extensive damage in 1849. You can read more about this beautiful piece - its history and restoration - in Bob Atchison's website: Hagia Sophia: The Deësis Mosaic  

View of the Hagia Sophia's Narthex - Lower Level Clerestory Windows
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

View of the Hagia Sophia's Narthex - Upper Level
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

Floor of the Hagia Sophia's Nave
When the building was used as a mosque, this floor was covered with prayer flags.
Istanbul, Turkey -2012

Before taking my leave of this remarkable building, I paused to look down to the floor, captivated by the simple but pleasing pattern of multicolored marble set into circles of a lighter color. At that moment, it struck me that this surface had carried the weight of people just like me, for almost 1,500 years. I was humbled and moved - as much by the simple floor beneath my feet, as the soaring dome above my head.

On the Bosphorus
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012
photo by Roger Winter

There is a wealth of information - including old photos, new photos, and measured drawings - available on the Hagia Sophia. I relied primarily on:

• Musgrove, John editor. Sir Banister Fletcher’s A History of Architecture, 19^th edition. Butterworths, London England 1987. pp 286 - 293.
• Hagia Sophia: The Deësis Mosaic Bob Atchison's website with lovely photographs and detailed text.

See more of my photographs at http://DigitalYak.etsy.com/.

Finding Peace and Hope...in Graveyards...

Cemetery of the Mantokuji Soto Zen Temple
Maui, Hawaii - 2010
Contemplating life (and death) at this brilliant intersection of land and sea and sky
can be a mind expanding, heart warming experience.

Graveyards and cemeteries have a powerful sense of place. If I come across one when I’m travelling, I almost always try to stop. Though they exist to commemorate death, more often than not, they impart to me a feeling of hope. I leave them with a satisfying sense of contentment and a renewed belief in the beauty of life.

Hierapolis, Turkey - 2012
Many hours can be spent wandering among the tombs Hierapolis (founded 2nd century BCE),
located adjacent to the travertine terraces of Pamukkale.

The tradition of burying loved ones is not part of my cultural heritage. Nepalese cremate their dead along the banks of rivers that spring from the Himalayas. Ashes mingle with the waters to become one with the mighty Ganga as it flows into the sea. All I know of graveyards has been gleaned through books and movies. As I gaze upon rows and rows of grave markers, I have no emotional connection to those whose physical bodies have found a final resting place in the earth before me. However, my appreciation of cemeteries exists and endures despite this lack.

Cemetery of St. Philip's Church in the Highlands
Garrison, NY - 2012

Graveyards and cemeteries appeal to my desire for order - not just spatial order, but cultural order, embodied by tradition. I can appreciate the the artistry of stone masons working with natural materials that telegraph the passage of time. 

Origo Family Cemetery at the Villa Foce
Tuscany, Italy - 2012

Origo Family Cemetery at the Villa Foce
Tuscany, Italy - 2012
Located on the grounds of Villa Foce, those who worked for the Origo family through the years
have also found a final resting place here.

I can also appreciate the way in which a place of private refuge can be carved out in some of the busiest and public of places. One can step out of the chaos of Istanbul, or the hustle and bustle of Boston and into a pocket park that houses history and transmits tranquility.

Cemetery at the Suleymaniye Mosque
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012

If every “picture tells a story” then surely every tombstone holds the key to multiple stories.  As a silent repository for the most basic facts of a person’s life – a name and two dates – the task of filling in the gaps belongs to the observer. If our minds are willing, the dates and the names, combined with the size, location and ornateness of the markers, all give us the context from which we might construct a possible life. What I find foremost in my mind is the weight of history, a consideration of hardships and dreams....a fervent hope for a life well lived.

Old Granary Burying Ground
Boston, MA - 2005
One of the oldest tombstones I've seen in the United States (1697/8), this one is located right in the city and has survived the elements quite well.  I assume that the skeletons refer to the temporary nature of life

A graveyard, as a physical place, must be the antithesis of the virtual place – the Internet - in which we spend greater and greater chunks of our time. Where the Internet spews out information, ad infinitum, graveyards withhold it. The Internet is about “real time” connections. Graveyards are about the past and letting go of our connections.

St. Philip's Church in the Highlands
Garrison, NY - 2012

One of the benefits of travelling is that it removes us from our daily routines and gives us the opportunity for a slightly different perspective on life. Graveyards seem to have the power to do this as well, and perhaps it is for this reason that I would gladly spend a morning or afternoon amid the grave markers, soaking in the solitude, just thinking...reading...sketching...dreaming….

Cemetery of the Mantokuji Soto Zen Temple
Maui, Hawaii - 2010