6: Water, Water Everywhere…

We prepare for the long stretch at sea. Students hit their stride in classes. Life Long Learners and faculty families settle into a shipboard routine.  Children are in “school” with a parent or caregiver in the mornings and have afternoon activities.

I have 7:15am yoga everyday. We struggle to maintain our poses with the rolling and pitching of the ship. Tree Pose however, is impossible, so we have to cheat. In my Exiles and Visionaries class, we are reading Robinson Crusoe. 

When we get to Japan, a third of the academic semester will be over and between our stops in Japan, China and Vietnam, there would only be a handful of academic days. Gary decides he should give his students the first midterm before we dock in Yokohama while everything is still fresh in their minds.

With water all around us, it is the small changes in light that catch my attention. The sea is relatively calm for the first few days. With students in classes during most of the day, taking photographs with the Life Long Learner group that I am a part of, is a bit eerie...a massive empty ship on the high seas...

A few days out of Hawaii, we cross the International Date Line...well, we have some flexibility in deciding when to actually "cross" it, so the powers that be decide that we will celebrate Martin Luther King day (rather than skip it) and then go to sleep on Monday night, and wake up on Wednesday morning. Good choice.

A lone ship we encounter about five days out of Hawaii

Things seem to be going well. Then we hit some rough weather! I thought I had gotten away without the dreaded sea sickness, but it was not to be...both Gary and I suffered. His was over it in a day, but mine lingered...and lingered! The mornings were bearable and somehow I made it through yoga. But the afternoons and evenings were the worst.

I began to wonder what my life would be like for the next few weeks. My concern started to overshadow my anticipation and excitement over seeing Japan for the first time. I heard stories of people who were sick for the whole voyage. There was even an extreme case of one person who had to fly from port to port! Would that be me? Horrors!

Luckily once we make it to Japan, the sea crossings will be short, and we would make it through to China, Vietnam, Singapore and Myanmar with only having one or two days at sea. I could only hope that once on solid land, I could somehow regain my equilibrium...

Gary grades his Geologic Hazards field lab essays as it storms all around us...

5: Honolulu…so close, and yet so far away…

Looking up to the sky and saying goodbye to Hilo...

We pulled into Honolulu on yet another brilliant morning.  After twelve stimulating and adventurous hours in Hilo, most of the ship’s passengers were in high spirits. But it was to be a regular academic day full of classes.

There were conflicting reports on whose yacht this was (on the right).
Some said it was Elton John's...others said it belonged to Paul Allen.

The ship was to be “bunkered” (fueled up) in preparation for the long voyage to Japan, and the process would take several hours.

We were docked within walking distance of the city and all it had to offer, but none of us were allowed to disembark. So we did the next best thing – snapped photographs and took the opportunity to use our cell phones to call and text family and friends and one last time with our regular service plans.

Tonight we would begin the long haul to Yokohama Japan. Time to buckle down and get to work in earnest...

Just another study day in Glazer Lounge...

4: Hawaiian Hotspots...a guest post from Gary Griggs

Early morning moon setting over Moana Kea (with the UCSC Keck Observatory visible at the right) in Hilo, Hawaii

Seeing the full moon set over Moana Kea as we sailed into Hilo, Hawaii, was not only a welcome sight after 7 days at sea, but was also a reminder that these islands are all volcanic, created over five or six million years as the massive Pacific Plate has moved northwest at a few inches a year over a hot spot or thermal plume rising from deep within the Earth. Six million years ago Kauai sat over the hot spot and was actively erupting, building that island up nearly 30,000 feet from the seafloor. Each island gradually formed and then died in a progression to the southeast as it moved away from the hot spot or plume. Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, and Maui each had their day, and now Hawaii sits over the plume, with Kilauea the most active volcano on Earth directly connected to a source of magma deep in the mantle.

While many of the people on the ship expected a classic steep-sided cone like Fujiyama, Mt. Saint Helens, or Shasta, the Hawaiian volcanoes are all much more subdued, being shield volcanoes, or shaped like a Roman shield resting on the ground. The difference in their shapes lies in the nature of their eruptions, which results from different lava compositions. The Hawaiian Islands consist entirely of basalt, lava low in silica. As a result the eruptions produce very fluid lavas, which flow considerable distances at only moderate speeds and are generally not a hazard to people- unless the people are moving very slowly or in the wrong place at the wrong time

The Cascade volcanoes, on the other hand, as well as Mt. Fuji, which loomed on the horizon on Yokohama as we sailed in early on the 29^th of January, have a classic steep-sided, symmetrical shape. The Chain of Fire, or the volcanoes that surround the entire Pacific Ocean, contain a higher silica content, and produce sticky, explosive eruptions, which build up steep, cone shaped peaks. Our best view of Mt. Fuji came on our entry to Japan and as the weather changed, we sadly never saw it again. But Deepika did get some nice pictures (stay tuned...)

Kilauea steaming (photo by G. Griggs)

Hiking across Kilauea Iki crater (photo by G. Griggs)

I did lead a class field trip to Kilauea on a hike down into and across Kilauea Iki, which was a red-hot, molten lava lake in the not too distant past, and which is still releasing sulfur oxide fumes and hot steam. As the lava lake gradually cooled and hardened the surface subsided and left a surface looking an asphalt highway broken and cracked by an earthquake.

Site of 1959 Kilauea Iki 2000ft high eruption (photo by G. Griggs)

Kilauea Iki following the lava lake cooling and collapse (photo by G. Griggs)

Broken and collapsed lava from former molten lava lake (photo by G. Griggs)

Walking across the now hardened lava brought thoughts of walking over hot coals and led us to wonder when the next eruption was likely to occur.  Kilauea is monitored virtually continuously by the U.S. Geological Survey’s Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, through a combination of the earthquake detection beneath the volcano, GPS measurements of the slopes around the volcano to see if there is any swelling, as well as daily sampling of the gases being discharged for any changes. Fortunately, the eruptions of Kilauea are somewhat more predictable and less devastating than the volcanoes surrounding the Pacific Basin.

Lava Tree - molten lava rushed around a living tree trunk, and immediately cooled, creating a mold of the tree within
(photo by G. Griggs)

3: Sailing the Pacific...to Hilo, Hawaii

Classes start. There are no weekends on Semester At Sea. There are only "A" Days and "B" Days. They occur one after another, every day that we are at sea. The first "A" day was on a Sunday. Gary has two classes back to back on the "A" Days, and one class on the "B" Days. 

Food is plentiful....3 times a day. There are evening snacks. There is a 24 hour cafe. There is a poolside grill. I am eating too much, exercising too little. The students seem to be taking advantage of the fitness equipment.

Internet is slow and not plentiful. It is an adjustment for everyone. But email seems to work, with a bit of a lag. With an added international roaming texting plan, we are actually able to text friends and family. Phone calls are pricey though. A $20 phone card gives you 13 minutes.

The view out of our our balcony is beautiful. The quality of light is constantly changing. The water is sometimes pearly gray, sometimes deep blue. In rough weather, we see whitecaps. Sunlight reflecting off the whitecaps gives an illusion of a diamond encrusted sea. The constant motion of the sea, sometimes calm, often roiling, always changing, makes it feel alive....like a huge organism that is allowing us to traverse its body.

We have not succumbed to sea-sickness. But the constant rolling of the ship is a complete surprise to me. It is impossible to walk in a straight line. We all weave back and forth as we walk...doing our best not to bump into others.

The days pass by one after another. As we approach our last day before landfall the excitement mounts. We are prepared with language bootcamp. We get an overview of the port, the art of Hawaii, the Hula, the unique geology...hot spots, moving tectonic plates. We can't wait to get on land, make some calls, find an internet cafe...

First Sight of Land 

Around 7am, Friday, January 17, 2014, we sight land!

Sunrise over Hilo

Moon over Mauna Kea (the world's largest mountain if the mass below the ocean is included)

A Full Moon, Mauna Kea, and the Keck Observatory

Tonight we board the ship and sail to Honolulu. Tomorrow - Saturday, January 18, 2014, we start the long journey to Yokohama, Japan.

2: Sailing off...to Ensenada, Mexico...

The next day, Thursday, January 9th, 2014, was full of Faculty and Staff orientation meetings. Unlike Gary, who was faculty, I had no responsibilities. The ship was hosting a TEDx event in the afternoon at 1pm and then a Parent Reception later that night at 7pm. I began to get familiar with the ship.

Glazer Lounge on Deck 7 where faculty, staff, families and Life Long Learners have a quiet place to work

View from Deck 5 Balcony - Port of San Diego

The thought of "sailing off" to Ensenada, Mexico that night was exciting. But I was also dreading how my body might react to the rolling and pitching of the ship. Gary, a two time veteran of Semester At Sea, expected to experience sea sickness during the first few days. As someone who gets car sick on Highway 17, I had absolutely no doubt that I would be miserable without some assistance. So I had prescription patches. I had ginger tablets. I was prepared! The instructions on the patch said "don't cut", but the ship's doctor said "definitely do cut in half or even quarters" especially if you are not a 200 pound 6 feet tall man. Luckily, we left at 11pm, and apparently, when lying down, the effects aren't too bad at all.

View from Deck 5 Balcony - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

View from Deck 7 - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

View from Deck 7 - Morning in Ensenada, Mexico

We woke to a different landscape - Ensenada, Mexico - industrial, quiet. All anticipation was for the 600 additional passengers - undergraduates and Life Long Learners - who would board the ship that morning. While I was in our cabin with the sliding glass door to the balcony open, I thought I heard Gary's voice. Looking out, there he was, in the midst of the boarding line, welcoming and chatting with every single student and Life Long Learner. I got out my telephoto lens...

The excitement of the new passengers ready to start an the voyage was infectious

The Pilot Ship accompanies us out of the Dock

After dinner that evening, in the twilight, we set off for Hawaii. It was Friday, January 10th, 2014. The crossing would take us a week. We would dock in Hilo, Hawaii at 8am, Friday, January 17, 2014.

The adventure was just beginning...

1: Semester At Sea...The Voyage Begins!

This voyage has been on our calendar for almost two years. But the day finally did arrive, way too soon. In San Diego, California, at 1pm on Wednesday, January 8, 2014, we boarded the MV Explorer, the ship that has been the home of Semester at Sea for the last ten years.

To say the ship is impressive would be an understatement. But I am equally, if not more impressed by the 200 or so constantly busy and always cheerful crew members who take care of the ship, as well as all of us - approximately 550 students, 30 faculty and 40 staff and all their families, and the 60 life long learners...

Monumental stairs in two locations connect the ship's 7 Decks

24 hour Cafe on Deck 6

View Across Deck 7 and down to Deck 6 just outside the smaller Dining Hall

Deck 7

Deck 7

Deck 5 Cabin - Home Sweet Home until May 2nd, 2014

We settle in and meet the other faculty and staff and family members. We are from institutions all over the United States. Many are repeat voyagers who have forged strong connections and with each other and have nothing but praise for the mission of ISE (Institute for Shipboard Education) and the defining experience Semester at Sea can be to all those fortunate enough to have the opportunity share the voyage.

We stay docked in San Diego tonight...don't have to worry about the possibility of the dreaded sea-sickness...yet...

River Ripples

There is a beautiful secluded spot on the Smith River in northern California that we try to visit whenever we can squeeze in a road trip up the coast.

We found it in 2006. While I knew that such lovely rivers existed throughout the United States, in National and State Parks and Forests, I was astounded to learn that one could stop along the highway, walk down a path, and just jump in – that it was “allowed”! I attribute this ignorance to being an immigrant who spent most of my youth studying and working, rather than exploring. But I have great admiration for the many people who came upon these beautiful locations and made the effort to preserve and share them with the rest of us.

Swimming in cold water is something I avoid with a passion. But on a hot summer day, I have to admit that these waters are mesmerizing. The sun’s rays refract on the waters surface creating sparking jewels of glorious colors and hidden depths. They weave a magical spell and it is impossible to resist its call…to drink in its thirst-quenching beauty…and lose oneself.

Yikes! It’s freezing…but wow…just…beautiful.

Next time you are traveling between California and Oregon, take a little detour to Highway 199 and make a quick stop at the Mary Adams River Access.  If you are heading north, it will be on your right, just before the bridge. You won't be disappointed.

On the Bosphorus
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012
photo by Roger Winter

You can see more of my photographs at: digitalyak.etsy.com