Monday, October 22, 2012

Cappadocia's Hoodoos: More Than Just a Pretty Landscape...

Fairy Chimneys in Pasabag (also known as Monks Valley)
2012
"Hoodoos"? Yes, you read that correctly. It's the plural of hoodoo. And yes, it's hard to believe, but that is a term used by geologists (who are indeed scientists...but seriously, "hoodoos"??).

Hoodoos are rocks that have been spectacularly sculpted over time by differential erosion. The name hoodoo comes from the rock's silhouette, which looked to some like a hooded figure. In France, they also call them "demoiselles coiffées" or "ladies with hairdos." In the United States, the northern part of Bryce Canyon is resplendent with hoodoos that have been formed of alternating hard and soft layers of sedimentary rock. Other famous hoodoos include the Badlands of South Dakota and the Demoiselles Coiffées de Pontis of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.

Pasabag
2012
In Cappadocia, Turkey, the hoodoos have formed from consolidated volcanic ash called tuff, and go by the romantic moniker "Fairy Chimneys." This is quite fitting, as the beautiful valleys of Cappadocia do appear to have been touched by a generous helping of that magic pixie dust....

Pasabag
2012
Located in central Turkey, Cappadocia is about a five hour drive southeast from the capital city of Ankara. The Hittites were the early inhabitants of Cappadocia (circa 1800 BCE), but others - Persians, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Armenians and finally Turks - all found their way there at different times, each contributing to the region's distinct cultural heritage.

Several valleys (Ihlara, Pigeon, Zelve, Devrent and Rose, to name just a few) with a history of volcanic activity make up the geographic area of Cappadocia. Tuff covered the region, and in many areas its soft layers were capped by more resistant material. Over time, wind and water eroded the softer material faster than the harder one, leaving behind a stunning monumental rock landscape - a virtual riot of pyramids, domes, cones and spires - rising above the valley floors.

Panoramic view - from Cavusin towards Zelve
2012
Unlike dense igneous rocks such as basalt and obsidian that formed from fast cooling lava flowing on the ground from erupting volcanoes, tuff originates from airborne volcanic ash that has slowly cooled before settling on the ground and consolidating, over time, into a less dense and softer rock.

Like those who came before them, the early Christians, who took refuge in the Cappadocian valleys to escape Roman persecution, recognized the unique properties of tuff and undertook the laborious task of carving into the rock formations to create hidden churches, monasteries, convents, dwellings and astounding underground cities.

Organic growth - natural and man-made, old and new - surrounds Uchisar Castle
2012
This resourceful human partnership with nature and the result - a testimony to ingenuity, perseverance, devotion and faith - distinguishes a visit to the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia from one to the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon. While the physical beauty of Bryce Canyon, with its sculptural magnificence and layered colors, is perhaps more stunning, it is the human interaction with nature in Cappadocia that utterly captivates and gives you something more substantial. In this regard, it reminds me of Mesa Verde, in Colorado. Being able to experience the spaces created centuries ago by hands wielding very simple tools, engages all your senses as well as your emotions....and history comes alive...

 Taking advantage of a natural fortification - view from Cavusin
2012
Frescos decorate the interior of this room adjacent to the rock Church of John the Baptist in Cavusin
2012
Looks like...a lovely single family home complete with a front yard...
view from Uchisar Castle
2012
Mysterious high window in Pasabag
2012
Finding a place in the sun, in Pasabag
2012
There are, of course many other attractions to seek out in Cappadocia besides its hoodoos. It has a long history and well deserved reputation for exquisite carpets and pottery. But the hoodoos have a special magical quality which begs thoughtful, quiet exploration - a bit of a challenge since it is such a popular tourist destination. However, when you do find that quiet time and space to sit and marvel at it all - the beautiful sky, the spectacular rocks, the age old will to survive - you will be well rewarded, for it is then that the the warm tuff rock gives up some of its secrets and the stories begin to emerge...

On the Bosphorus
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012
photo by Roger Winter





All of the images posted here are also available for purchase as 8x10 and 5x7 fine art prints and A2 size greeting cards (all printed on archival water color paper) at http://DigitalYak.etsy.com/. Be sure to send me a message if there is something you'd like that you don't see listed, or if you'd like a custom size or item, as I truly enjoy creating one of a kind items that hold special meaning. Thanks!!

Monday, October 8, 2012

Distressed Beauty

Beysehir, Turkey
2012
Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.
- Confucius

We have all been touched by that which we consider to be beautiful. Many great thinkers have pondered the definition of beauty. We talk about "traditional" notions of beauty. And we acknowledge that there are distinct cultural notions of beauty. We can even accept that beauty is a concept that need not be bound by the experience of our five senses:

The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or even touched
- they must be felt with the heart.
- Helen Keller

I recently returned from a three week tour of Turkey, a country of startlingly diverse physical terrain, made even more fascinating when considered through the lens of its complex geo-political history and singular position as the meeting ground of east and west. The result? A visually rich landscape and cultural heritage which translates into a photographer's dream destination.

So it's a bit ironic that the first photographs I have chosen to showcase this dream destination have to do with buildings in various states of decay....

Ayvalik, Turkey
2012
Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson

I don't consider myself an expert on aesthetics by any means. But as an architect, I do spend a great deal of time analyzing my work. When it comes to photography, I think hard about what I am trying communicate with the images I've captured through my lens and carefully consider what might distinguish my images from the countless others that flood our physical and virtual worlds.

Over the years I've realized that beauty, defined as something visually pure and perfectly balanced, is overrated. It just doesn't have enough nuance to be emotionally satisfying. It is shallow and insipid, rather than rich and meaningful. And it almost never tells a story...

Ayvalik, Turkey
2012
Beauty? To me it is a word without sense because I do not know where its meaning comes from
nor where it leads to.
- Pablo Picasso

While I can appreciate perfection (and even admit to being a perfectionist...), my view of beauty - which now permeates my work and outlook on life - is most closely aligned with the Japanese concept of "wabi-sabi". Wabi-sabi is uniquely Japanese, and stems from an interpretation of Zen Buddhism that has evolved over centuries. It encompasses an experiential component too, so it is as much about process as it is product.

In his book "Wabi-Sabi: for Artists, Designers, Poets & Philosophers," Leonard Koren writes: “Wabi-sabi is a beauty of things imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete.  It is a beauty of things modest and humble. It is a beauty of things unconventional.”

Ayvalik, Turkey
2012
And in the essay "What is Wabi-Sabi?" architect Todao Ando, writes:


"Pared down to its barest essence, wabi-sabi is the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection and profundity in nature, of accepting the natural cycle of growth, decay, and death. It's simple, slow, and uncluttered - and it reveres authenticity above all.... It celebrates cracks and crevices and all the other marks that time, weather, and loving use leave behind. It reminds us that we are all but transient beings on this planet - that our bodies as well as the material world around us are in the process of returning to the dust from which we came. Through wabi-sabi, we learn to embrace liver spots, rust, and frayed edges, and the march of time they represent."

Beysehir, Turkey
2012
We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting.
- Kahlil Gibran

I admit that there was no grand discourse about wabi-sabi in my mind when I was photographing these structures. I was subconsciously drawn to the texture and weathering of the materials (revealed in layered relief) that spoke lyrically of the passage of time...and abandonment. I was intrigued. As I learned more about the history of Ayvalik and Beysehir, the two towns where these photographs were taken, their stories came into clearer focus.

Ayvalik, located on the northwestern Aegean coast of Turkey, has a rich architectural heritage and is known for its olive oil. The city enjoyed some autonomy within the Ottoman Empire (even though the city residents were predominately of Greek origin) and became an important cultural center in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1919, the city was controlled by the Greek Army, as Turkey was on the losing side of WWI. But in 1922, the forces of Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) retook the city. The Greco-Turkish war had already led many of the city's residents to flee, and after the Turkish War of Independence an agreement called the "Exchange of Greek and Turkish Populations" resulted in the mandatory expulsions of Moslems living in Greece and Christian Greeks living in Turkey...

Ayvalik, Turkey
2012
In contrast, the city of Beysehir is located on the southeastern shore of Lake Beysehir, the largest freshwater lake in Turkey. The area is fertile and farming predominates in the villages surrounding the lake. The lovely Turkish family we stayed with in a village outside Beysehir told us that sadly, the lake today has very little fish. Where once there were hundreds of fishermen and thousands employed at fish processing plants around the village, now there are none. Overfishing has destroyed the thriving industry, forcing families to leave and seek work elsewhere. On the positive side, an important lesson has been learned and in a few years, the fish will slowly come back.

In every image there is a story just waiting to be uncovered...or written...

On the Bosphorus
Istanbul, Turkey - 2012
photo by Roger Winter





All of the images posted here are also available for purchase as 8x10 and 5x7 fine art prints and A2 size greeting cards (all printed on archival water color paper) at http://DigitalYak.etsy.com/. Be sure to send me a message if there is something you'd like that you don't see listed, or if you'd like a custom size or item, as I truly enjoy creating one of a kind items that hold special meaning. Thanks!!