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Women dressed in traditional longi with man in suit, next to a motorcycle in Mandalay
These bell shaped gilded stupas are a familiar sight throughout Burma. |
We were scheduled to take an early flight from Yangon to Mandalay and
were given the astonishing meeting time of 3:30am. We would have a continental
breakfast ready for us in the Dining Room, and then board the bus for the
airport by 4pm.
All went well. Of the twenty-eight in our group, only five
were students. Apparently another Semester at Sea field program, Beach and
Elephant Camp, was wildly popular with the students and there would be three
different groups making that trip. The faculty liaison for this trip was a
wonderful couple from Pittsburgh – he an astronomer and biologist, and she a
long time university registrar.
Our first stop in Mandalay was the U Bein Bridge, which
according to our guide, is the longest wooden bridge in Burma. One of the
benefits of our early morning flight is that we got there before the rush of
other tourists. There were no large groups there yet, so our visit was
leisurely. We were able to enjoy the changing colors of the sky as the sun rose
further into the sky, while the sounds of chanting from a nearby temple filled
the air.
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U Bein Bridge, the longest wooden (teak) bridge in Burma. It was early morning when we arrived, so the colorfully decorated boats in the foreground sat idle. |
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Tourists and locals silhouetted in the early morning light on the U Bein Bridge in Mandalay. |
Additional stops that day included the requisite temples: Mahamuni Pagoda in the morning and Shwe Kyaung (Golden Pagoda Monastery) and Kuthodaw Pagoda in the afternoon. We even squeezed in visits to a weaving workshop and decorative wood carving workshop. Shwe Kyaung was a very pleasant surprise. Known for its intricate wood carvings which cover every inch of its exterior, photographing it – capturing its tactile complexity and patterns – was challenging, but in a good way.
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The beautifully and densely carved facade of Shwe Kyaung (Golden Pagoda Monastery), in Mandalay. |
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This reproduction ceremonial helm of the Naga tribe, caught Gary's eye (he is still disappointed that he could not bring back the yak skull he had bought - and then had to return - in Lhasa...). We think that water buffalo and wild boars contributed their parts to this flamboyant creation, though the shop lady said something about horses... |
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The gold leaf stupa of the Kuthodaw Pagoda, set amid the white washed smaller pavilions. |
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The many pavilions on the grounds of the Kuthodaw Pagoda house individual stone slabs
inscribed to form the "largest book". |
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Monks approaching the inner sanctum of the Kuthodaw Pagoda. |
We had an early departure the second day as well. We left the hotel at 5:30am and were on the boat that would take us up the Irrawaddy River to Bagan before the sunrise. Though we were apprehensive about the twelve hours we would spend on the river, it was surprisingly relaxing and comfortable, despite the intense afternoon heat. All along the Irrawaddy, daily life was on display. Men and women fished, washed clothes, children played. There were villages and temples, and farms. We drank coffee, had snacks, took photographs and napped (the students in the morning, the older people in the afternoon…). We all got to know each other better.
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On the Irrawaddy, traveling at about 10 knots, heading to Bagan. |
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Life along the Irrawaddy... |
The highlight of the river trip was our mid-day visit to
Yandabo village. This village’s economy depended on the production of
terracotta pots crafted from clay found on its riverbank. We observed the
process they used to throw the pots, which were then dried in the sun, pounded
or “stamped” with a wood mallet, then dried again, and finally fired – not in a
kiln, but in a big heap, covered with brush and ash and cow dung, in a
smoldering charcoal fire. We enjoyed the interaction we had with the village
children and other residents of the village, who seemed somewhat amused by all
of us, and very willing to smile for photographs and “talk.”
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The sun sets on the Irrawaddy as we approach Bagan. |
On the drive to our hotel in New Bagan, we got to see a
little of old Bagan. Some consider Bagan to be the “Angkor” of Burma. During
the height of the Pagan Kingdom (9
th – 13
th centuries CE)
that first unified the various regions that would later become Burma, over
10,000 temples, stupas and monasteries. Today over 2,000 remain, some currently
in use, others, reconstructed and still others left to ruin. They sit, almost
randomly littered, in lovely picturesque counterpoint to the flat Bagan plains.
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Resourceful children selling their sketches to tourists to use as postcards. The paste on the young girl's face is called "tanaka". It is worn by children and women, to protect the skin and enhance the complexion. |
The next day, what I wanted to do more than anything was get out on foot or on a bicycle to explore the plains. The early morning light was golden….but our itinerary had us heading to the local market….darn.
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Young girl tends a beetle nut leaf stall in the Market. |
We got to a few of the major temples and stupas in Bagan: Ananda,
Shwezigon, Gubyaukgi, Mahabodi, and Htilominlo. And we finally did get some free time to roam
on our own (but it was in the harsher mid day sun which wasn’t so good for
photographs…), and then enjoyed a bumpy fun ride on a horse drawn carriage to
one of the temples that we could climb to view the sun setting over the plains.
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Thatbyinnyc Temple, c 1150 CE. |
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Shwezigon Stupa, 1102 CE. |
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Htilominlo Temple, 1218 CE. |
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rtist at one of the many shops that line the compound of the Htilominlo Temple. |
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Looking upward at the Htilominlo Temple. |
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Facade detail of Htilominlo Temple. |
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AnandaTemple, 1105 CE. |
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Niches housing smaller Buddhas line the corridor that allows you to circumambulate
the four standing Buddhas, one facing each direction, that are located in the center. |
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Our ride into the sunset on horse drawn carriages. |
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The temple we would climb to get sunset views over the Bagan plains was already packed with tourists. |
One surprise was how interesting we found the local lacquer
workshop. I remember looking at the lacquer tea set that my grandparents had
brought back from Bejing in the 1960’s. I assumed that it was made of some type
of paper mache, since it was so very light. At this workshop, we found that
they actually started with very thin strips of bamboo, sometimes woven together
with horsehair for added flexibility. On this base was then layered the many
coats of lacquer, each requiring several months of drying time (which took
place in the basement of the workshop).
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The many stages of creating lacquer (start at the middle and spiral clockwise). |
On the way to the airport, we made one last stop. It was a
village where they would be showing us their traditional ways of weaving,
farming and silver working. Though we all knew we were probably being shown the
village that might best suit our “western” sensibilities, it was still quite
pleasant to wander through and try to interact with the local people.
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Gary visits with two toddlers observing village life from their swing. |
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